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We spent the next day visiting the Museu de Artes Decorativas (“Museum of Decorative Arts”) and wandering around the Baixa area and the waterfront.
The museum was interesting, and more than a little eclectic. Here’s what greeted us when we walked in the door.
Entering the display area proper involves a dramatic staircase.
The rooms are quite lovely, and filled with beautiful works of art.
Not to mention all sorts of statuary.
As well as some really cool miniatures.
But the standouts, to me, were the intricately designed and beautiful pieces of furniture. Several of which showcased Indian influence, derived from Portugal’s Goa colony.
I would love to own either or both of these particular pieces. But I’d likely be scared to death of damaging them if I did.
After the museum, we grabbed a bite to eat in one of the many outdoor cafes that dot all of the touristy areas of Lisbon.
We also walked around the quaint little neighborhood near the museum, taking in the beautiful tile work on the Igreja de Santa Luzia (“Church of Saint Luzia”).
Not to mention the spectacular views of the river.
We then headed over to Baixa on foot. Along the way we stumbled upon an ancient Roman theater that was being restored.
One of the interesting things about both Lisbon and Porto is that civic construction projects often take much longer than expected…because no one knows what ancient ruins might lie under the ground that’s scheduled to be dug up.
Fortunately, most of the walk was downhill. Punctuated by local artwork, beautiful buildings, and, of course, tilework.
Baixa is always packed with tourists, taking in the sights and enjoying the huge number of coffee shops, restaurants and stores that make up its core.
It’s also the part of Lisbon which was nearly totally destroyed by the Great Earthquake of 1755. The devastation was so intense that the Marques De Pombal, a senior military leader in Portugal’s worldwide empire, was put in charge of rebuilding it. Being a military man, he naturally rebuilt it (using troops) along the lines of a military outpost, making it one of the few parts of Lisbon to have streets laid out in a grid.
He also did not rebuild the churches in the area that had been destroyed, purportedly because he assumed the citizenry wouldn’t be as motivated to worship a god that had let the earthquake happen.
The Praça do Comércio is at the foot of the Baixa district.
It’s dominated by a huge arch and a gigantic statue of King José the First, who was the reigning monarch when the earthquake struck.
Naturally, being so close to the water, most days he sports a seagull.
Although I suspect the seagulls have to compete with the pigeons for that honor.
